Putre and the Altiplano parks
16.11.2007
Just spent 5 amazing days in the mountains..hopefully I manage to upload pics so you can see...the landscapes speak for themselves.
On Monday, I arrived in Putre, and to tell you the truth when I got off the bus, I thought ´where the hell am I?´ Two others travelers got off the bus too but took off right away. I dropped my bag off at this little hostel,that must have been a stable in its former days...very simple rooms...but clean...all I can ask for. I walked around town and felt like I was alone on earth...the town was empty...apart from one or two convenient stores...well, ´store´ is a big word... the town is made of brick and mud walls...yet it has a cute center square and all the infrastructures you can think of, from a cultural center, to the post office...all that for a tiny mountain village of 1,200 people at 3,500m. After a few days there though I started to look at the town in a different way and to enjoy its particularities. Most striking is the contrast of the traditional Andean women (exactly as you picture in your history books or Tintin!) and the new generation of young girls, especially those going for that punk look. On my last night there, the town was hosting a huge Andean music festival. Perfect timing, great way to wrap up my adventure in the Altiplano.
Day one was spent resting...with the altitude, you need to adjust and sleep before going on hikes or doing any physical effort. Many travelers get altitude sickness. I was ok, other than a few headaches.
Day 2= The salt lake of Surire, an unforgetable adventure. Turns out the 2 travelers from the bus were staying at my hostel, and we ended up booking 3 tours together. For Surire, 4 other travelers joined us, which made for an interesting and diverse group. The pics will say it all...although they can´t capture half the greatness of the landscapes and the power of nature...I can only say how incredible it was to be there all alone (well with the small group) walking through the salt like...it felt like being on the moon... out of nowhere, as we´re driving along the mountains & volcanos, this white lake appears...surreal... we drove around it and stopped at thermal baths... some courageous souls ´jumped´ in... the blue water against the salt lake was amazing... we continued on to a flamingo reserve...along the way we could observe vicunas and lamas grazing away...such cute animals. The flamingo reserve was just spectacular...it´s hard to describe such landscapes when you have nothing to compare it to...we paused for 10min of silence...which made you really appreciate nature, its beauty and its force. On our way back, we stopped at a refuge for dinner...again, amazing how out of nowhere we can get a really decent meal...soup and alpaca meat with rice. On our drive back to Putre, we were treated to an amazing starry night, making the whole day just unforgetable.
Day 3: Lauca Park. This time, it´s just me and Tal & Bamzi, my friends from the hostel (they are traveling around the world for a year!). Our guide takes us through mountain villages, explaining the rich history of the Andean culture which then mixed to the Spanish invaders´ culture. We hiked up this rocky hill at the bottom of the Lauca Park volcano, again amazing scenery with lagoons all around us. The volcano is so impressive. We actually felt the earth more, which ended up being that quake that most of you read about. It felt like being on a boat and getting sea sick. Only lasted under a minute. Had no idea though that it would translate into a quake in the valley, quite scary. Hiked also at the bottom of the lake Chungura with the volcano in the background...just like on that travel show on channel 25 that i had seen a few months ago.
Day 4: Colorado mountain. Once again with Tal and Bamzi, such a great couple- glad I met them and got to spend a few days with them. We ended going on this hike of a lifetime ... up to 4,825m. The guide wasn´t really clear on the hike we were about to embark...he said 2hr1/2...but it ended up being 4hr1/2..up this crazy hill, full of rocks and sand. The altitude made it really hard to breathe. As we got closer to the top, we had to stop every 10 steps and breathe. My heart was going 100km/hr and my legs were like marshmallow. Each step required such will power and strength...I´ll remember it during my next marathon...as it was truly the hardest physical effort I ever experienced. The hike down took about 3min donwhill and then a good hour across the open field of dried mud and sand. We got back early enough to get a good dinner in town as this local joint (Rosamel)... soup is big here...always at the start of each meal...loved this little place...only one menu option...all the local workers seem to go there...can´t beat the price...I went there on my first night with a german girl i was rooming with... but the 2nd time was even cooler, as the lights weren´t working and we ate with candles. My last night there also happened to be a music festival celebrating Andean culture from Peru, Bolivia and Chile. There was a food fair (which as you know, i love!) where I could try all these products I had never seen before, fruit and pisco drinks. Quite fun. Also, a big Bolivian band was playing. The night was cold though, as every night, so I didn´t stay until the end. Back in the room, I had to sleep in my thermals again... it gets to about -15C in the night...or about 12c in the room. Brrr.
Day 5: took the bus back down to Arica... back to Sunny Day hostel, and off tomorrow to Iquique.
So far, so good...more than good, so great! Plus I´m getting tan...although my nose is burnt...the sun is so strong. Good to be back by the water...off to another harbor tomorrow...will visit the fish market, I´m sure!









